Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Monday, June 8, 2015

Safari - Zanzibar

One of the reasons we travel and accept jobs in other parts of the world is to go to interesting and exciting places. Zanzibar is one of those places that even sounds exotic.  With a unique history and ties to Oman (a country that I love dearly), Zanzibar provides a blend of Arab and African, and has long been a place I have wanted to visit.  So, with a long weekend available, Nancy and I headed off on our safari (the word simply means journey).  Here's some pictures:
View from our hotel on the beach - low tide.
Zanzibar is a group of islands (sometimes called the Spice Islands), so of course ocean related activities and historical sites are the two main tourist attractions.  We spent a couple of nights at a beach hotel and one in the old historic "Stone town".  If you look closely at the photo above, you might see people off in the distance - it's low tide and the women have walked out from shore in groups to surround and net the small fish.
Dhow ride - going by a fancy hotel on the beach.

We had to go for a sunset Dhow ride. We were anticipating a quiet cruise, but found we were sharing the boat with a diverse group of friends, living in Zambia, but from both Europe and Africa (Germany, Sweden, South Africa, Zambia, Tanzania) who brought along a group of drummers and danced much of the trip. Great fun.



We also spent some time in Stone Town, the old capital of Zanzibar, with winding alleys and old buildings. We loved the old doors.
gorgeous hours

great carving



Indian style



Slave dungeon- as many as 50-60 packed in these holding cells

Zanzibar also had a long history as a center of slave trade and we visited both a slave market area and the underground cells where they held the slaves.

Zanzibar also has the distinction of being the site of the Anglo-Zanzibar War, known as the shortest war in history - 38 minutes.
Fort in Stone Town

We even went to a small island called prison island ( real name - Changuu)  that had served as a quarantine site as well as the home of some giant land tortoises.
Great beaches - this one on Changuu


Nancy and I even went snorkeling !
in the boat on the way to the reef for snorkeling.

More adventures await ...


Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Safari. Manyara and Ngorongoro

Our first safari took us from Dar es Salaam by plane to Kilamanjaro International airport. We were met at the airport by Athumani, our guide and driver for the next three days, along with his safari vehicle - equipped with a cooler and seats for seven .
Nancy & Athumani & our transportation

We drove the first day to first night's lodging at a "tented " lodge that is nicer than our current apartment.
Inside the tent - note bathroom area through the arch.

Pretty nice view of Lake Manyara from the porch of the tent, too!
Spent the first day exploring Manyara national park - around Lake Manyara  and the adjacent Great Rift escarpment area. Beautiful conenctions between the mountains, the lakes, and the forest.  Lots of animals.
Giraffes liked the partial clearings between lake and escarpment.

Then we drove to the Ngorongoro Crater Area and Ngorongoro conservation area .  This amazing place is a huge (about 100 square miles) volcanic crater, encircled by mountains and full of wildlife.

Ngorongoro

 We felt lucky to have come in the rainy season, as it was so lush and green and peaceful.  The conservation area also encloses the Olduvai Gorge area where evidence of some of the earliest humans has been found.  It really did feel like the garden of Eden.

Sunset at the lodge overlooking Ngorogo . Rainy & cold but beautiful.
I am finding it hard to express how it was, so I will simply add a few more pictures to try and help folks get the feel of being in this gigantic crater full of animals with a rim of mountains all around.  Great experience.
Big Temba (Elephant) in the crater
Nice horns
Hippos in the pool - clouds around the rim of the crater

Hyenas are just plain nasty looking.

We saw so much and the pictures can't capture the feel.  I think I may want to get a telephoto lens ;-) I also kinda like saying the word Ngorongoro.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Mzungu ?

Michigan, Mumbai, and Mzungu ?
You may have noticed that we changed the name of our blog !
The blog was entitled "Michigan and Mumbai", because when we started it I thought it would simply last for the time we were in India and then quietly go away (Well, it almost did).
We've added the word Mzungu to the blog. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mzungu

Mzungu is the Swahili word commonly used for foreigners.  Besides the fun sound of it, I really appreciate the origin of the word as wikipedia describes it ... "Literally translated it meant "someone who roams around aimlessly" or "aimless wanderer."  We do sometimes have the dizzy, lost look, but do also enjoy our wanderings and we like to think they are not all aimless.
Grand Canyon - March 2015 - Nancy had never been so we scheduled a little trip.

Leaving India was stressful.  The emotional energy involved in the packing, saying goodbyes, and thinking about the changes coming to our lives left little reserve for the practice of blogging.  I just wasn't in the right space to do so. So this blog has been sadly neglected for about a year.

We moved back to the states in July of 2014, enjoying the return to our home and friends and the change in weather and environment. We spent much of our time doing things we hadn't done for two years - working in the yard, rearranging and cleaning the house, re-involving ourselves with church and community.  Life was enjoyable, quiet and peaceful in Michigan after the clamor and energy of India.
We have now begun a new adventure.  Nancy accepted a 3 month substitute teaching position at a small British school here in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania  (On the eastern side of Africa). I came along as moral support, house-boy, chief cook & bottle-washer, and whatever other tasks may come my way.  As I was going through some emails today, I recalled that several friends had said something about expecting good stuff from the blog, and realized that I should have some time that I could devote to that endeavor.   So here we go.

I've got a few posts sharing some reflections on India that I had started but never really completed.  I may post one of two of those before I start some about Tanzania.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

One word to describe India: Hopes

I will be attempting over a few blog posts to write some of my thoughts about India by collecting them around one word.  This is my first attempt.
---------
I began writing this using the word "Expectations", then realized that "Hopes" was a better choice.  I was initially inspired by our trip to Darjeeling where Nancy and I arrived with great hopes of seeing the Himalayas, only to have three days of cloudy, cold weather. 
 
Our best view of Darjeeling from the toy train ...
The closest we came to seeing the mountains
Hopes

India is densely populated with hopes.

Beggars tap on the windows of cars hoping for a coin or scrap of food,
With hopeful songs of hawkers and vendors assailing passing ears.
Crows hop between cars hoping to grab a bite of road-killed rat
While Party members desperately hope for a majority vote.
Drivers confidently thrust their vehicles into packed intersections
Hoping and somehow knowing that a path will magically appear.

Families move to the crowded city slums in hopes of a better life
and quirky television commercials raise ideas of how it can be lived.
Children attend after-school classes hoping for high exam scores,
Mothers dream of degrees in law, or medicine, or engineering,
While fathers of daughters look for ways to raise the needful dowries,
And consult with the pandit for an auspicious wedding date.

NGO's hope to make a small difference in the lives
of their carefully identified slices of the teeming masses,
some of whom huddle in their makeshift shelters lined
against the back walls of the luxury hotels where
CEO's make deals over buffet lunches and dream of record profits,
growing market shares and low labor costs.

Stray dogs lounge all day on the sidewalks, waiting for the evening
and the hope of a handout of food scraps while
Black kites circle slowly in the warm updrafts
looking hopefully down on the world below.
As the days become hotter, farmers hope for good rains to come:
The entire year revolves around the hope of the monsoon.

India is nothing if it is not a land of hopes.
-- -- -- --
We have our first-world hopes too.

We hope for quiet spaces amidst the growing cacophony
of horns and loud mall music and night-barking street dogs.

We hope to maintain the fond memories of wonderful people
whose essence can't be captured by a few photographs.

We hope to see past the poverty and pollution
to experience the awe-inspiring vistas,
the mountains soaring skyward into cold blue skies,
and white marble mausoleums reflecting back the early morning light.

Trying to reflect back a hint of the gracious welcome and friendly manner of the people
who greet us each day, we dearly hope to stave off the day
when we become the jaded, self-absorbed ex-pats thinking
only of our next vacation and nodding sagely as we tell each other:
Tee Eye Eye
This Is India.

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

By the airport

View from airport - our apartment complex is behind airplane's tail




We live by the airport.
Not such a big deal,
lots of people live by airports
and put up with extra traffic ...





Airplane landing by our apartment - taken from across the street



and flights that arrive and depart
in the wee hours of the morning and disturb your sleep.




Plane landing with Mahim creek in foreground

Near the airport is a creek
and a number of slums / suburbs
The new terminal
Just opened at the airport.
We haven't seen it yet,
but hear good things about it.
What we have seen is the life
In the neighborhoods around the airport.





Life under the landing planes

I like living by the airport,
hearing the planes landing or taking off.
They're louder when they take off of course,
But the wind is usually from the other direction
so we get the sights and sounds of the landing planes.







enjoying the evening air - watching the planes land



I think about where the planes are coming from
who is on them, and what lives they are about to begin.
I also think about who else is watching them
and the lives they lead.




   
The planes land right over their heads



The contrast between those of us who have come to this place
on the wings of dreams
and those of us who can only leave by dreaming of wings
is so strong.


Thursday, November 21, 2013

Kodai Revisited

Always so green - Poinsettia tree ;-)

After more than forty years, I returned to Kodaikanal, where I had gone to boarding school through 7th grade.
Main entrance

It had been 47 years since last I had been there - though several family members had been there since. Much has changed of course - the town is much bigger and noisier, as is the school. There are a number of new buildings that made the campus seem more crowded than I had remembered. Of course things also seemed much larger in my memories, some of which I am sure are because I was smaller and my perspective has changed.  A lot of thoughts and memories came back to me - mostly good, I think. I worried that I afflicted Nancy, Alisabeth and Rickie with boredom as I spouted old stories, but they said they enjoyed it.  I hope so.  Here's some pictures.
Chapel

Chapel interior - significant early spiritual and musical memories.
Phelps entrance









Near Sherwood dorm - I helped build it serving detention hours. Used to make forts in woods near the dorms.

Phelps Hall - my first dorm - Houseparents were Mr. & Mrs. Banks - both born in 1899.
My traveling companions in front of the auditorium.



Kodai Lake - Perumal Mountain in the background.  The school in the red roofs on the right hand side above the boathouse and the Carlton Hotel.  Stayed there.




Friday, September 20, 2013

Summer Vacation

The summer of 2013 has been over for us for a few weeks now.

Nancy at the castle in St. Andrews
We began again back at school here in Mumbai on August 5, after almost two months of time off to travel and see family. In many ways it was the first real summer vacation Nancy and I have had together.  Before this we had usually taken a week or two off here or there, but not an extended period of time like we did this summer.
Waterfall in the Lake District
This summer's vacation was pretty special and was broken into about 4 sections. First, we had a good time, just the two of us, exploring England and Scotland.


Then we separated for some professional development, Nancy heading to Connecticut and New York for a visit and writers workshop and I went to San Antonio for the big ISTE conference.

Mt. Rainier - Yes, I took this picture - I was gob-smacked!
We re-united in the Pacific Northwest where we had a great time visiting family and enjoying the outdoors.





Hiking in the Olympics with Jen & Eric






















Finally, we spent a couple of weeks at a rented cottage near Lake Michigan where we could hang out and enjoy family and friends.
Hanging with family and friends at the beach.
We have never had a summer so full.  The life of the international teacher is lots of hard work, but also lot of good vacation and travel!

Sunday, August 11, 2013

The Taxi Ride

Bailey Farms, near Osinning NY, where the
training for Amherst Writers and Arts took place.
I heard the sound of a car horn. “That’s my taxi,” I announced to the two remaining writing workshop members.  We exchanged quick hugs and I ran outside. A chunky, dark haired man was standing next to the black, oversized car. The driver and I exchanged greetings. I noticed he cradled his cell phone in his hands. He offered it to me as if giving me a gift.

His face had an open, childlike expression and he asked me, “ Please, you find the map to the airport?” I took one look at the old mobile phone and knew I was in deep trouble. I couldn’t figure out how to use my own iPhone and I was suppose to figure out this alien device? I quickly got on my computer and prayed that the WiFi access I used during the week could work here, outside, on the driveway. I Googled directions to JFK Airport from Osinning, New York.  I offered up a little prayer that the map would stay on my screen, and said with false confidence, “Let’s go! Take I-678 South.”

I settled into the back seat of the car.  The driver pulled onto the highway. The back seat was so spacious it could qualify for an apartment in Paris. The old suspension of the car rocked me into a feeling of comfortable contentment. Then I remembered a small detail. “The woman at the retreat center said that you take a credit card.  Right?”

“No, ma’am. Only cash,” he answered.

“I have no cash. We will need to stop at an ATM machine.”

“Okay, ma’am.”

“Good,” I thought. “He’s from this area.  He will know where to stop.” I settled back into my apartment size, gently swaying back seat.

“Are you from around here?” the driver asked.

“No,” I answered. “You won’t believe this.  I teach in India.  I am from India.  That’s why I don’t know how to get to the airport. Where are you from? What’s your name?”

“My name is Paulo. I am from Guatemala. I live here eight years. I buy this car.  It is my business,” he answered. Paulo looked at me in the mirror. “I saw a T.V. show about India.  Montañas in India. Como se dice…?”

We lapsed into a comfortable silence. Then I noticed signs for the Taconic Parkway. “Take this exit!” I shouted. “Go south! Go south!” The big boat swerved into the correct lane at the last moment.

“La Himalyas!”  he exclaimed with jubilation. “The show was about a girl. She went up into the Himalyas all by herself in just a jeep. Big tanks of petro on the back of the jeep.”

“Oh, yes.  The Himalayas.  It’s really cold up there.  I haven’t been there yet.  Do you see the Cross Country Parkway?  We need to go east.  EAST!  That exit there!  EAST!”  We slid past the east exit.

“No worry,” my trusty driver said as he exited west into a grey, tired town that had seen happier days. Paulo and I kept careful eyes out as we maneuvered our car through one-way streets, u-turns, and false highway exits.  At last we found a sign for Cross Country Parkway East.  Our car was once again heading toward JFK Airport. We continued on down the highway and through a tollbooth. I began to see signs for John F. Kennedy Airport.

“We need to stop at an ATM machine,” I reminded the driver.

“Yes,” he said without one suggestion of how we should accomplish that important task.

“Oh my God. What should I do?” I thought. I knew that Paulo could not drop me off at the airport and wait for me to find an ATM. The authorities would never allow it.  Should I have him drop me off while I find an ATM and he drives around?  Should I beg someone to lend me money?  Should I get out, collect my bags, and run? We were getting closer and closer to the airport. Suddenly my 59 year old brain remembered Yelp.  I could Yelp a near-by bank.  On my phone, I saw there were four banks on Liberty Street in Jaimaca, New York—the last exit before the terminal.

“Quick,” I instructed my driver. “ Get off on Liberty.  There are some banks on that street.”

The driver pulled off the highway onto Liberty Street.  I slunk low into my black leather couch and reminded myself that this was one of those times I need to let go, take a deep breath, and believe in all things bright and beautiful. “Get a grip, Nancy,” I lectured myself. “Stop acting like a 1950s girl with all your fears and prejudices.” I sat taller in my seat, reached through the two front seats to show Paulo my Yelp map.

“We need to keep heading west on Liberty to reach the banks,” I said as I prayed the banks had an open ATM machine.

Paulo inched the car down the road.  Suddenly my heart took a happy leap. A man in a neon orange turban.  A woman in a turquoise sari.  An Indian spice store.  “I’m home,” I sighed.  “It’s all going to be okay.”

“LOOK!” Paulo pointed.  “An ATM!” 

Paulo pulled over. I jumped out of the car and ran into the convenience store. The smell of tandoori chicken greeted me. “Where is your ATM machine?” I asked the man.  He pointed to the machine. I quickly withdrew the money I needed and headed back to the taxi. As I hurried to the car, I looked up. The store across the street was “Kohinoor Kitchens.” I smiled, nodded, and thought, “It’s like I’m home.”

My driver and I reached JFK Airport. I paid him his fee plus a good tip.  That day, Paulo and I were on a quite a journey together. You could look at it as a crazy ride to JFK or you could look at it this way: There were two travelers in that car searching for something more to life—a Guatemalan immigrant living in New York, U.S.A. and an American expat living in Kohinoor City, Mumbai, India.






Sunday, February 10, 2013

India 101: A Day in Delhi

    "You don't need to go down there," the tour guide said with a wave of his hand.
    "Yes I do. I want to see up close. I want to be a part of it." I insisted.

    The guide, who had been satisfied with looking from the street above, reluctantly led Tim and me down the stairs, along the narrow sidewalk, and to the place where the crowds were removing their shoes.
    Tim and I left our shoes with the piles of worn sandals and joined the throng of people walking on sacred ground. Walking quietly to Raj Ghat—Mahatma Ghandi's final resting place. We followed an old woman. Her long gray hair braided, her sari worn, her back bent. At the platform, she reached out and gently touched the smooth, black marble. Her hand then moved to her lips, her heart, and head. I looked around. Circling the large marble slat were Indians of all ages. Men in faded dhotis, their faces lined with age. Children in their blue school uniforms. The girls with their long braids looped and tied with ribbons. Families holding up their little ones to see Gandhiji's final resting place. Women in saris of all colors: turquoise, pink, yellow, jade green, royal blue. The young women's backs were straight and their gait graceful. The old women's backs were hunched, their tired feet shuffled. One man, missing a leg, rocked forward in a slow rhythm. He swung his crutch forward and caught up with the crutch on the second beat. As each person passed the monument, they paused momentarily to touch the holy platform then touch their lips. The crowd moved slowly as if no one wanted to leave this place as peaceful as the man it honored.

    As we walked back to where we left our shoes, following the people of India, Tim and I squeezed each other's hand. "This place, this country is good," I thought.

Monday, December 17, 2012

India 101. Part 2

Jaipur.
After leaving Delhi, we headed west and south, into Rajasthan, to the area around Jaipur, the second leg in our "Golden Triangle" tour.  It felt good to me to be traveling through the countryside, past the rich fields and small villages, the vistas punctuated by the narrow towers of the brick making kilns. Recognizing some of the crops made me want to know more about those that I did not know. What are they growing?
Amber Fort - on the way in.

The Amber fort, was our first stop in the Jaipur. It is not named for the color, but rather for the town of Amer, and so is also known as the Amer fort.  We had the opportunity to ride an elephant up to the fort, but choose not to wait the hour or two. I think most of us felt a little sorry for the elephants as well, though we were assured that they were limited to two or three trips each.
Part of the fort - note the screen area above .

The fort itself is a great example of Rajput architecture, engineering, and artistry. The marble and red sandstone courtyards and the fine craftsmanship really are stunning, and the clever uses of water to cool and refresh are amazing.
Garden and hall of mirrors within the fort - elaborated channels to water the garden.

In the town of Jaipur itself (also known as the pink city), we saw two more significant places: the City Palace, and the astronomical observatory or Jantar Mantar.
Like many of the forts and palaces in Rajastan, the City Palace is really a complex of palaces and courtyards, elaborately decorated. It was (and is) the residence of the Maharajas of Jaipur, the first part built between 1729 and 1732. Lots of interesting things in the museum and incredible details in the ornamentation of the gates.
Detail from one of four main gates to City Palace courtyard

The Jantar Mantar was a neat combination of science and architecture. The massive sundials and observational structures are pretty impressive. From the wikipedia article: "The observatory consists of fourteen major geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars' location as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the celestial altitudes and related ephemerides."
The largest Sundial in the world - shadow on the curve tells time in 15 second increments.

Very worthwhile visit, enhanced by good company and food - we even did a little shopping.

Learning how carpets are made. A look of concentration.